!!useful facts!!
Alcohol in skin care - busting myths
Natural alcohol has been used by people since pre-historic times in many different forms - beverages, medicine, household and industry. Now when organic cosmetics is on the rise, thanks to its antiseptic properties, alcohol has become an important ingredient. Still - some consumers are concerned that alcohol dries and irritates skin, therefore it should be avoided. MADARA investigates scientific data and busts the myth.
What is alcohol?
Natural grain ethyl alcohol, also called ethanol, pure alcohol, grain alcohol, or drinking alcohol is a colourless, volatile liquid that has a light odour. Derived from grains (wheat and rye) as a result of fermentation of sugars. Natural alcohol has been consumed by people in the form of alcoholic beverages like wine, beer, whiskey since ancient times. In medicine, natural alcohol has been used as solvent, antiseptic and disinfectant. Ethanol kills organisms by denaturing their proteins and dissolving their lipids and is effective against most bacteria, fungi, and many viruses.
When we say "alcohol" we usually mean ethyl alcohol. However in chemistry term alcohol stands for the large group of substances whose molecules contain hydroxyl (OH) group. Methyl, butyl, isopropyl alcohol belong to the same group of alcohols as ethyl alcohol, but only ethyl alcohol is drinkable. Cetearyl, steartyl alcohols belong to a different group of alcohols - these are waxy substances obtained from plant oil. Also glycerin and menthol are alcohols by chemical definition. When we see a single word Alcohol on the ingredient list of cosmetic product - this stands for ethyl alcohol.
Because of its antiseptic properties ethyl alcohol is used as a natural and safe preservative for cosmetic products, as well as solvent for various active ingredients. Certified natural cosmetics contain only natural grain alcohol. Synthetic alcohols produced from petroleum, or Alcohol Denat. (denaturated alcohol), are natural alcohols made undrinkable by adding toxic substances, e.g. methyl alcohol are forbidden.
Why should alcohol be used in organic cosmetics?
Natural and organic cosmetics can be preserved by a very limited number of preservatives and antiseptic agents. These include:
Benzoic
acid, its salts and esters
Benzylic
alcohol
Formic
acid and its sodium salt
Propionic
acid and its salts
Salicylic
acid and its salts
Sorbic
acid and its salts
Natural
ethyl alcohol
Antiseptic
essential oils
In the 20th century most of these substances were tested on animals for its oral and dermal toxicity (now in most countries animal testing is discouraged or banned by law, depending on the industry, but we still have data from earlier tests). According to LD50(skin)RBT test results (substance is applied to rabbit skin) showed in graph1, concentrated natural alcohol is the mildest antimicrobial agent. It is 10 times less toxic than butylparaben and xxx times less toxic than phenoxyethanol (both are widespread synthetic preservatives).
Among listed preservatives and antiseptic agents that are approved by ECOCERT for natural cosmetics, natural alcohol is the mildest preservation method. It is especially suitable for leave-on products (products that are not washed off), like face and body creams. Organic acids and benzyl alcohol have significantly higher irritation potential, therefore they are more appropriate for rinse-off products, like soaps, wahses and shampoos. Antiseptic essential oils (sometimes labeled as perfum on the INCI ingredient list) have reasonable antiseptic properties only when used in high dosages, which results in strong smell of the product and higher irritation potential of the skin.
Is Alcohol toxic when applied to skin?
Intoxication effect of alcoholic beverages - getting drunk and having hangover - is well known in historic and modern society. After drinking alcohol, ethanol within the human body is converted into acetaldehyde and then into acetic acid. Acetaldehyde is more toxic than ethanol and is linked to most of the clinical effects of alcohol.
Pure concentrated ethanol applied to skin in great amounts can cause intoxication. However animal tests carried out in the 20th century report that acute dermal toxicity of alcohol is low in comparison to other preservatives used for cosmetics (see graph1). Alcohol is a volatile liquid and when applied to skin in small amount, alcohol evaporates and therefore toxicity potential of topical application insignificant.
Does Alcohol irritate and dry my skin?
Concentrated alcohol 30-40% can cause irritation and dryness of skin, eye and mucous membranes. Typical irritation of the mucous membrane in the mouth can be sensed when drinking spirits like cognac, rum, vodka etc. In concentrations below 15-20% (this is a typical alcohol content of topically applied medical preparations), irritation, sensibility and drying potential of alcohol drops significantly. Natural cosmetics is preserved using even lower concentration of alcohol. Normally such small concentration of topically applied alcohol solution does not pose risk of irritation and dryness, and products containing this dose of alcohol can be used even by individuals with sensitive and dry skin. Used in products for combination and oily, acne prone skin alcohol is beneficial because of its disinfection potential. It acts against most bacteria and helps to regulate action of sebocytes.
Dermatologist's opinion: Dr. Lauma Valeine, dermatologist, "Health Centre 4" beauty clinique "4 Dimensija":
Alcohol that is obtained from plants has the least side effects and is the optimal, and most beneficial substance for preserving natural cosmetic products, especially those that are permanently applied on skin. In comparison to organic acids and salts, and benzyl alcohol, natural alcohol has the lowest potential to irritate the skin. Natural alcohol is continuously used and tested in medicinal research for various drugs and preparations – significant experience in this field has been accumulated throughout the years. Adding natural alcohol in small doses (below 15%) to a skin care product can't cause negative side effects, such as skin dehydratation, irritation, whereas larger doses (30-40%) can. For dry and sensitive skin, the best option would be to use products with small doses of natural alcohol. For normal to combination, and oily skin type, the best would be to use larger doses, as it has disinfectant, and regulatory properties of sebaceous gland.
does MADARA use SCCO2 for extraction?
MADARA
uses organic plant extracts that are manufactured using natural and
certified organic plant solvents (like oil, glycerine).
Supercritical carbon dioxide (SCCO2) extraction process uses
liquid carbon dioxide at a special temperature and special pressure
(31oC, 72.9 atm/7.39 MPa).
Supercritical CO2 is used in several industries, for instance in
manufacture of household appliances. Coffee
industry is reaserching SCCO2 to use it as a decoffeining (removing
coffeine) solvent instead of other solvents that have controversial
reviews.
SCCO2 extraction sometimes is used by cosmetic manufacturers
to extract active organic components. SCCO2 method allows to produce
extract of oil and water soluble substances without high content of
solvents. However, SCCO2 extraction has several drawbacks.
1. SCCO2
extraction is performed under pressure which creates high-risk working
environment and is high in energy consumption. This results in high
production costs.
2. SCCO2 is not able to extract inorganic active
ingredients (e.g. minerals) that are important for holistic skincare.
All plants but especially such plants as algae (seaweed), horsetail
contain large amounts of minerals, therefore SCCO2 method would
provide a insufficient extraction.
The same quality and effectiveness
of cosmetic product can be achieved by adding extracts that are
manufactured with natural solvents like organic glycerin, natural
alcohol, purified water and organic plant oil. Moreover most of
cosmetic formulations contain these substances in the product base,
therefore there is no need to avoid them in the extract. Third, SCCO2
extracts cost 10-50 times more than same quality extracts that are
produced with traditional solvents, it creates unjustifiable increase
of product price.
Are MADARA products also suitable for men?
MADARA products are also suitable and being used by men. Especially popular amongst male users are the following products:
- Mint shower soap with a refreshing mint flavor. Shower soap is a great start for an active day. Comes in a handy packing with a sealable pump, so the shower soap wouldn't spill when taken to a gym.
- Deep clarifying foam men are willingly using as a shaving foam, praising the handy bottle that itself creates a rich foam. A Japanese beauty blog listed MADARA's foam as the best natural shaving product for men!
- Deep cleansing or balance toner is used by men as an aftershave. Deep cleansing toner is more suitable for oily skin or skin, which tends to become irritated after shaving as this product contains active antibacterial plant extracts. Balance toner is suitable for normal / combined skin.
- Men are also very fond of MADARA moisturizing facials, especially Deep moisturizing gel (totally oil free!) for combined / oily skin and Deep moisturizing fluid for normal / combined skin. Regenerating night cream is a popular product for evening use as it helps protect the skin from wrinkles.
Men have positively rated MADARA's convenient packaging - bottles with dispenser and ones which can be easily opened and closed. This is important both for everyday use and travel. Furthermore, the flavor of all MADARA products is natural and neutral which men consider as a significant plus, because they're unwilling to use products with a distinctly feminine fragrance.
Is Madara a certified organic beauty brand?
MADARA produces ECOCERT® certified organic cosmetics. ECOCERT® is the leading European authority on organic certification, and the standards used by prestige organic brands. By means of the ECOLOGICAL AND ORGANIC COSMETICS standards, Ecocert defines a requirement level that is superior to the conventional regulation governing cosmetics, thereby guaranteeing the genuine practice of environmental respect throughout the production line, respect for the consumer and the promotion of natural substances of a superior ecological quality.
What's special & unique about Madara that makes it stand out from the other organic/holistic beauty brands in the market?
The very heart of MADARA products - the active ingredients - is flowers and herbs from the Baltic meadows and forests. The natural environment in the Baltic region is unique because the northern summers are much shorter, leaving flowers with a much shorter time to attract bees for pollination. Plants are compelled to concentrate their blossoming vigour in this short blossoming time. As a result, at the time of harvest they are rich with the active ingredients required to survive in bitter climates.
i have heard that here is a deep understanding of the importance of lunar phases rooted in the traditions of the Baltic nations?
MADARA products are made from only the highest quality natural ingredients, including medicinal herbs and plants harvested according to the astronomical calendar. This local knowledge has been retained from the ancient times when each person was in harmony with the nature.
Because of the nature of beauty products (for e.g. foaming shampoos need a foaming agent, which often can only be created synthetically), can organic beauty products ever be 100% organic?
All skin care products contain items from the following categories in some combination or other: emollients (to prevent dryness and protect the skin, acting as barrier and healing agent), humectants, emulsifiers, preservatives, and surfactants (surf-active-agents or foaming agents). These components could be synthetic or natural. In certified organic cosmetics you can find only natural components. All ingredients used in our products meet the ECOCERT requirements and derived either from plants or from inorganic. For example, in the MADARA range we use sucrose cocoate, a gentle cleansing agent extracted from plants, and fragrances made from essential oils.
The preservatives that are being used to give MADARA shelf life, are these natural?
In MADARA cosmetic products plant alcohol is used in small concentrations as the preservative. This is a natural plant alcohol, made from grain.
What's the most common misconception about organic skincare?
A common misconception about organic skin care products is that they are more gentle for the skin but not as effective as synthetic dermatology brands. In fact, organic cosmetics don't give an instant effect, but have a deep and long-term efficacy to our skin. Each natural component has various properties - it is able to regenerate, moisturize, tone, stimulate, heal, nourish, relax, and tighten. Human skin is able to use exactly those ingredients that it needs the most to become healthy, glowing, and happy again. The wide range of plants in nature allows selecting the most suitable ingredients for each product. Usage of plant active ingredients in the beauty care is effective, because metabolism processes in cells of plants and people are similar.
If I have no real allergies to regular skincare, why should I switch to organic?
Here is why you should avoid chemical cosmetics:
1. Our skin is extremely permeable. This is particularly important for leave-on cosmetic products like hair dyes, facial creams, and make-up. One scientific study showed that 13% of the cosmetic preservative, butylate hydroxytoluene (BHT), and 49% of the carcinogenic pesticide, DTT (found in cosmetic containing lanolin), is absorbed through the skin!
2. If you use a small amount of a toxic chemical everyday for your entire life, it's going to accumulate in the tissues and organs of your body.
3. Recent scientific studies show that these chemicals are toxic even at very low doses.
4. Some of these chemicals may be the culprits of this vast epidemic of infertility. If you don't want to have to go through infertility and IVF clinics to be able to have children, you're better off avoiding chemical personal care.
5. If you are pregnant or if you are breast-feeding, your baby is exposed - through you - to these chemicals, which have even worse effects on a young, developing organism.
Mother Nature always has and always will provide us with everything we need. By seeking out truly natural and organic products we are making a positive difference to our own health as well as respecting of environment.
For a first timer, what 4 rules of thumb should I remember if I plan to switch to organic?
Switching to organic cosmetics you should remember following rules of thumb:
1. Make sure that cosmetic carries the label "certified organic".
2. Test the cosmetics before buying. Organic cosmetics are with active ingredients, which can react with skin and cause allergic reaction. These reactions are usually short-term, and the skin adapts quickly to the more active components.
3. Never buy cosmetics in big quantities, organic cosmetics has a limited shelf life, because there are no synthetic preservatives inside. More caution has to be taken to avoid direct sunlight, heat, extreme cold etc.
4. Organic cosmetics can have an unusual, but fresh scent, because in production of organic cosmetics synthetic fragrances are never used. Instead, combination of natural essential oils is used. They evaporate very quickly and do not give a strong lasting scent.
Don't natural cosmetics cause allergies more frequently than synthetic cosmetics?
It's true that many natural substances (pollen, honey products, vitamins, etc.) can cause allergies for sensitive people. Even though there are various individuals that suffer from allergic reactions because of these substances, others find them safe and necessary. Statistics show that the number of allergy sufferers in the past decades has rapidly increased. Allergies have become an unwelcome but often present guest in Latvian homes, too. 30 million people suffer from asthma in Europe, and scientists predict that half of the world's population will be beset with this illness in 2015! Why? Are we all truly becoming more sensitive to pollen and honey?
Actually, allergies are an inadequate (overly sensitive) reaction of the immune system to a normal substance. That means that allergies are a disorder of the immune system. Scientists the world over explain the rising number of allergies with the indiscriminate use of household chemicals and synthetic cosmetics. Cosmetics and household chemicals contain inorganic substances that the body does not "recognise" and that have a negative effect on health. Using synthetic cosmetics every day harms the immune system, causing health problems for oneself and one's offspring. However, natural substances have the ability to harmonise the organism and help cells become less sensitive. They help not only to lessen the allergic reaction, but also the cause of it.
How are the products tested?
A panel of consumers participates in the creation of a product's recipe and its evaluation. The panel consists of people with various skin types, including sensitive and allergy-prone individuals. The panel provides their subjective evaluation of the product and their skin's reaction after testing a sample. Their opinions are taken into account when refining and finalising recipes.
After a product is created, it is tested in a laboratory by measuring various physical and chemical properties, determining stability and the expiration date, as well as studying and defining standards for storage. In accordance with law, the product is tested by a qualified chemist to make certain that it complies with safety and consistency tests. Then the product is sent for the approval of a dermatologist. Individuals of various ages and skin types use the product under the surveillance of a certified dermatologist, and report their reactions. The product is tested to make certain that it does not cause allergic reactions or irritation. Dermatologist tests have shown MADARA products to be hypoallergenic and irritation-free.
Isn't coffee extract (in Contouring cream) bad for the skin? Doctors recommend not drinking too much coffee.
Coffee is a powerful stimulant. That's the reason we drink it: in order to heighten our activity. Coffee contains a lot of caffeine, which gives it stimulating properties. Doctors are convinced that using too much coffee internally makes the body grow accustomed to a regular amount of stimulants, and this disrupts equilibrium. However, coated on the skin, coffee extract has an effect locally: stimulating skin cells and microcirculation in the skin. This stimulation tones the skin and fights the signs of cellulite. Yet coating the skin with cream containing coffee extract does not heighten blood pressure. Coffee extract is an active ingredient in MADARA's Contouring cream, and caffeine (one of the substances in coffee) can be found in MADARA's Anti-cellulite cream.
Do natural ingredients really work?
It's wrong to think that only cosmetics created by the newest technologies can achieve great results. The opposite is true: natural active ingredients, when skilfully picked and included in the formulas of cosmetics, care for skin much more effectively.
At the cellular level, metabolic processes in both skin and plant cells take place in a similar way. Just like for a human being, plant life processes are ensured by biochemical reactions between enzymes, vitamins, minerals, etc. Just like in a human body's cells, harmful free radicals form in plants. The plant fights them with flavonoids, vitamins, and other antioxidants. The active ingredients work in the same way when they enter the human body. For example, antioxidants improve the well-being of cells and give them energy. The human organism "recognises" the active ingredients from plant cells, rather than as synthetic foreign bodies. That's how it's biologically possible for these substances to engage in skin cell life processes, and effectively improve both cellular well-being and overall health.
Moreover, plants contain composites of active ingredients, in which the active elements are ideally integrated and proportional, rather than just one separate substance. The skin cells receive a balanced source of energy in which every component is complementary to the others and thusly, working together, can improve cell vitality. For example, that's why our Contouring cream contains coffee extract rather than just caffeine (one of coffee's components).
How are MADARA products preserved?
We're often asked, "But how do you preserve your products? If you don't use chemical preservatives, don't your products spoil quickly?"
Nature contains many different kinds of preserving substances. Many plant substances themselves contain antioxidants (for example, vitamin E) or antibacterial substances that help a product retain its freshness. An especially good preservative is natural alcohol, which is added in small amounts to keep our products from spoiling.
The second factor is packaging. How many of you have used creams in pots with screw-top lids? Twice a day we put our fingers in these pots, but our hands are coated with thousands of bacteria! In spite of this, the cream is good for three years? The question arises - what in the cream can still be natural, if its expiration date is so far away.
MADARA creams come in vacuum packaging. First of all, it's impossible to contaminate the cream with bacteria from one's hands. Secondly, the vacuum packaging ensures that, with each pump, the double bottom is raised, ensuring the complete isolation of the product from air. If there's no air, bacteria cannot multiply.
Other MADARA products that don't require such strict isolation from air (for example, liquid soaps and tonics) are packaged in matte, white or opaque flacons, in order to protect the products from the negative effects of light and UV rays.
The expiration date of MADARA products is 24 months, or two years from their date of manufacture.
For what age group are MADARA products created?
MADARA cosmetics are meant for women from all walks of life, who are seeking openheartedness, meaning, perfection, and pleasure. For women who are tired of society's high standards for perfect figures, perfect make-up, and the perfect hairdo when getting out of bed in the morning. We are real women, with real family and work lives, and real responsibilities. We are realistic in our demands of ourselves. For women who are tired of marketing advertisements' unreal promises about eternal youth and magic tricks; for those who understand that under all of that hides just a temporary effect.
Every woman wishes to become more attractive, because a woman's mission is to be beautiful. With her beauty, she creates love, respect, success, and happiness all around her. MADARA doesn't promise effects that can be likened to laser surgery, but does promise to be a friendly ally and will help to care for your beauty, well-being, and harmony.
What's behind the name, "MADARA"?
The word, "madara" (wild madder, or Galium mollugo) is associated with the most fragile, delicate, and aromatic flower in Latvia's fields. Just like a woman, it needs support and protection in order to be able to maintain her femininity and ability to love and care. Madara is just as enigmatic and changing as a woman. The structure of this plant symbolises philosophical completeness and the endlessness of beauty in nature. The blossoms of Lady's bedstraw are like a fractal: a structure with scale symmetry, where the smallest leaves are arranged in the same way as the stems, and the stems, as the plant. Fractals can often be found elsewhere in nature: the coast line, in clouds, as well as the circulatory system of the human body.
Why use active ingredients from the Baltic?
We're especially proud that MADARA cosmetics contain active ingredients (extracts) from Baltic plants. MADARA gives a lot of credit to the beauty-enhancing properties of foreign plants from faraway lands, like, for example, ginseng, green tea, and lavender, but we try to use the plants that grow closer to home in our products. These plants are closer to us both energetically and physiologically. Latvia's fields contain real beauty secrets! For example, the plantain increases skin elasticity, moisturises and softens the skin. Hops stimulate cell activity and battle signs of aging. The raspberry tones the skin and nourishes it with vitamins.
Aren't eco-cosmetics just a trend?
Eco-cosmetics are gaining ground the world over. Some call it a trend. Still, when looking deeper, it can be concluded that more and more people are returning to true and natural values in their lifestyles, eating habits, and beauty care.
From the beginning of civilization, our ancestors have gathered plants, flowers, fruits and berries, roots and bark: everything that nature has presented us with. Each plant has its own qualities and effects: healing, moisturising, nourishing, calming, toning, relaxing, tightening, stimulating, etc. Plants have been used for thousands of years to promote health, and an impressive store of knowledge has been gathered about their use in beauty care.
What other certificates apart from ECOCERT are trustworthy and reliable?
The most common ones are BDIH, Soil Association, and NaTrue.
Do MADARA products protect from sun and other types of everyday radiation?
MADARA moisturizing day products (deep moisture cream, fluid, gel) contain Titanic oxide (a white mineral pigment) which has sun filtering properties. Thus MADARA products provide some protection from the sun, 2-4 SPF to be exact. This information is not given on the packaging since following the new regulations of the EU for labeling sunscreen products, the minimum SPF to be specified on the packaging is 6.
Can MADARA cellulite and stretch mark treatment products be used during pregnancy and breastfeeding?
Yes, products for treating cellulite and stretch marks are especially suitable during this period. The anti-cellulite cream will make your skin more flexible, strengthen blood vessels, and stimulate lymphatic drainage from legs. Anti-cellulite cream should be applied on the affected areas.
It is recommended to start using the firming oil already in the first weeks of pregnancy in order to help your skin become more flexible and prevent stretch marks. The oil can be used on all areas of the body. Special attention should be paid to the zones where stretch marks are apt to develop - hips, thighs, stomach, and breasts.
Can MADARA products be used also on mature skin, after the age of 40?
Yes, they can. Natural cosmetics are like food - each organism/skin type will absorb what is most necessary for it. Young skin will "take up" less and mature skin will consume more of the active ingredients - vitamins, mineral substances, etc. Natural cosmetics will not provide an immediate wrinkle-smoothing or skin-lifting effect but it will have a deeper and more permanent impact in the long run.
What is the expiry date for MADARA cosmetic products?
All MADARA products have 2 years before expiry date from manufacturing.
Where are MADARA products manufactured?
MADARA cosmetics production unit is located at 2 Šampētera Street, Riga.




